Introduction

Pansy, heartsease and viola are common names given to a large genus of over 100 species of mostly hardy perennial plants. The name 'viola' comes from the Latin word for a violet and is akin to the Greek 'ion'. Most are native of northern temperate regions (7 in the UK) some are from South America and a few hail from South and East Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Most are small in habit, seldom exceeding 15cm (6in) in height. The numerous varieties of bedding viola and pansies are deservedly popular and provide valuable colour for spring and summer displays. Flowering is best and longest in cool, moist seasons. Most varieties can be propagated from seed, division or from runners.

How to Sow for Best Results

Large-flowered viola or pansy seed can be sown either late winter/spring for summer flowering or in late summer for spring flowering. The seed is quite small and must be handled with care. Sow on the surface of the compost, then cover with approximately 1.5mm (1/16 in) of Sow Lite or free draining compost. Sow Lite is a natural mineral (known as vermiculite), which when exposed to very high temperatures expands to produce a honeycomb like structure. Gardeners can benefit from this structure, as it helps to absorb excess moisture, insulates the seed and allows oxygen through the compost to the germinating seed. Place the tray or pot inside a clean, clear plastic bag and seal with an elastic band. This will help keep the compost moist.

The compost should be moist, but definitely not wet. Wet compost (which can even be the case straight from the bag) will be cold and reduce the oxygen that the seeds need to germinate. It may even stop the seeds germinating at all! If the compost is too dry this will also cause problems. If this is the case, sprinkle a small amount of warm, clean tap water over the compost and leave it to soak in thoroughly. When the compost has absorbed the water, take a small handful and squeeze it in your fist; if water drips out it is too wet, so leave it for a short while in a well ventilated spot to dry off. If it holds together when you open your hand, it's just about right. You can now fill your seed tray or pot with the moist compost and you don't have to water it again before you sow the seed.

Then place the tray or pot in a cool dark place. Cool temperatures and darkness are important as light and high temperatures can prevent germination. The soil temperature should be no more than 24C (75F). The temperature should not fluctuate, as this can cause poor or failed germination. Some seed will often germinate in 10 to 14 days. When germination has taken place, move the seedlings into a bright place out of direct sunlight. This will prevent the seedlings becoming tall or weak. Regularly check the compost for dryness. If this is the case, add a little clean water from below, being careful not to over water. Too much water can kill seedlings, as it can spread "damping off fungi" and encourage other moulds and diseases.

When the seedlings are large enough to handle, (this should be after about 3 - 6 weeks) without touching the stem, just handling the leaves, transplant them carefully into 7.5cm (3in) pots. Grow on in a cool, frost-free, well lit place, but avoid direct sunlight. To ensure really well branched plants, pinch out the growing tip after they have rooted well into their pots. Finally, pot them on into 15cm (6in) pots or baskets, (depending on the variety, or where you want them to end up) and grow them on for a few weeks in a frost-free greenhouse or similar. Gradually acclimatise them to the outside conditions by placing them in a sheltered place during the day and bring them back inside at night. Watch out for cold winds as well as pets, birds, mice etc. When fully acclimatised they can be left out or planted into their final flowering position for you to enjoy.

Keep an eye out for greenfly, whitefly, caterpillars and other pests; if they become a problem, use a recommended proprietary brand of insecticide. Botrytis (grey mould) can, in some years, become a problem. Try to avoid watering from above. Pick off any badly affected leaves and flowers, then spray with a recommended proprietary brand of fungicide. Water the plants regularly and feed with a general all-purpose liquid fertiliser every 10-14 days. When the plants are in flower, a regular feed with a high potash feed (most tomato feeds) would also benefit them. Don't forget to deadhead and remove any damaged flowers or leaves. Deadheading will promote more flowers and help reduce the spread of any pests or disease. Deadheading and/or light pruning will help prevent the plants becoming 'leggy' and keep them neat and compact.

So called winter-flowering pansies generally don't flower in the winter! They flower most often in early spring or during mild, sunny spells in the winter. The low light levels and very cold conditions tend to slow down or halt flowering, until more favourable conditions occur.

Wild types, like common heartsease, are best sown directly where they are to flower in late spring. They can also be sown in late summer/early autumn. Many of the varieties will also self sow in this way. The seedlings should be thinned out when large enough to handle to 15cm (6in) apart.

As with all Fl hybrids, the seedlings may differ if self seeded or seed is collected and sown from the parent plant. To maintain the true Fl type new seed must be bought from the place of origin.

The plants can be used in many types of displays. Pansies and violas grow well in beds and borders, as well as in flower pouches and baskets. The flower petals can be added to salads to make a colourful show or candied to top desserts.