Growing Bananas From Seed

Table of Contents and IntroductionAfrican Violets: the Doyen of House PlantsAgapanthusAlstroemeriasAmerican SagebrushesAmerican WildflowersAndean Nymph - a pink mimulusAquilegias (Columbines)AuriculasAustralian AnnualsBellis Perennis (Daisies)Black-Eyed SusanBlue African LiliesBreeding DelphiniumsBreeding Fuchsias: Part 1: From SeedBreeding Fuchsias: Part 2: HybridisationBromeliads from SeedButterflies in Soy SauceCacti RaisingCampanulasChilean Bell FlowerChilly Treatment for Peruvian LiliesCollecting SeedConserving Annuals and BiennialsCosmosCucumbersCycads: Living FossilsCyclamen for IndoorsDahlias from SeedDamping OffErythroniumsF1 Hybrid - What Is it?F2 and Open Pollinated VarietiesFrom Obscurity to the Height of FashionGentiansGeraniumsGermination to Pricking OutGolden Impatiens - The StoryGrowing Alpines From Seed: Part 1Growing Alpines From Seed: Part 2Growing Bananas From SeedGrowing Cyclamen From SeedGrowing Eucalyptus From SeedGrowing Ferns from SporesGrowing Foxgloves From SeedGrowing Fritillarias From SeedGrowing From Seed: From Packet to SoilGrowing Hardy Ferns from SporesGrowing Hardy Geraniums From SeedGrowing Lewisias From SeedGrowing Magnolias From SeedGrowing Meconopsis From SeedGrowing Proteas and Related Genera from SeedHandling Small SeedsHardy Annuals: Part 1Hardy Annuals: Part 2Hardy CyclamenHardy SpurgesHelleboresIncreasing your Violas and ViolettasKeeping Records of Seed SowingLettuce - the Vital Part of any SaladLord Anson's PeaMagnolias - the Root of the ProblemMimulus from Seed to Seed in Sixty DaysNew Guinea ImpatiensOld-fashioned Sweet PeasOnions with EverythingPansies are not Difficult to Grow from SeedParsleyPerennials for American GardensPetuniasPhygelius - their cultivation and propagationPinks: Evocation of the PastPlants That Flower OncePrickly but NicePropagatorsRadishesRaising PalmsRaising PrimulasSalad Leaves - a lot to be desiredShow Stoppers Twice OverSowing SeedsSowing in Open GroundSowing to Feed our FriendsSturt's Desert PeaSweet Peas - Autumn SownSweet Peas - Sowing and GerminatingTall and HandsomeTechniques with Tiny SeedTexas BluebellThe Effect of Light on Germination and SeedlingsThe Nervous PeaThe Scarlet Welsh PoppyThe Search for the Yellow Sweet PeaToad LiliesTomatoesTreasure Hunt for TasteUnderstanding Latin NamesUnique Poppy (Mother of Pearl)Viability of VegetablesWeaning SeedlingsWill the Real Mimosa Please Stand Up

The bananas we buy in the greengrocers have no seed but catalogues list seeds of some other species. Ron Menage describes how to grow them as dramatic foliage plants for the conservatory or garden.

The banana seems to be the subject of a good deal of confusion, disagreement and misunderstanding - reference books and authorities can give surprisingly conflicting information! A varying number of species is quoted, for example 'about 25', 'about 35' and 'about 40'. Nomenclature is extremely muddled and, in the case of the edible fruiting kinds, there is the complication of the existence of countless numbers of named varieties, cultivars and hybrids, some being given specific names.

Fortunately, as far as we are concerned the matter is simplified, because the seed of very few seems to be readily available. However, it should be understood that hardly anyone without an unusual amount of space and constant high temperature and humidity will be able to grow plants to fruiting size. Splendid specimens, bearing numerous great' hands' of fruit can be seen in the warm greenhouses of botanic gardens, such as Kew, but edible banana fruit, like those grown commercially and sold in the shops, cannot usually be obtained from plants raised from seed. The flowers of the fruiting forms are not generally fertile, although some set seed in the wild. The black specks, seen down the centre of a banana fruit when cut are the aborted ovules. For cropping, the plants are consequently reproduced from the suckers that arise around the base of the parents.

Those widely grown for commercial crops include Musa x paradisiaca (M. sapientum) the Plantain or Jamaica banana, and M. acuminata (including M. cavendishii, M. chinensis and M. nana) the Canary or Chinese banana.

The fact that we may not get edible fruit from the types we cultivate need not worry us. The banana is one of the most impressive, handsome, and exciting, of all foliage plants - and great fun to grow purely for its ornamental value. Considering its tropical origins it is also surprisingly easy and tolerant, at least for a few years until its size may become an embarrassment. None is hardy, but two that may be seen planted out in sheltered places, such as in the Tresco Abbey Gardens on the Isles of Scilly, are M. basjoo the Japanese banana propagated from stolons, and M. ensete (M. ventricosa) the Abyssinian banana (seed of which is usually available). These do not give edible fruit, but the stems of the latter are used as food in Ethiopia. Both yield a textile fibre in their natural habitat.

Growing conditions

The Abyssinian banana is probably the most popular species grown in this country for ornament. It has been a favourite for many years. A report in 'The Garden', 16th December 1871, gives an account of it being grown in cool houses in Paris, whereas here it was grown in the warm, and suggests its possible use outdoors in sheltered spots. Even so, for most people it is best regarded as decidedly tender and it is more reliably suited only to summer subtropical bedding where it can make a striking feature plant. It also makes a splendid summer tub plant for a sheltered patio or the like. Although I live in a very mild part of southern England, it has never survived outdoors over winter here.

Most species will enjoy all the warmth they can get and will be happy in the home greenhouse during summer - at that time often a very warm place even without any artificial heating. However, given higher temperatures they are very fast growers once the seedlings have become established. If you have only a small greenhouse, it's usually more convenient to stand them outdoors in a sheltered place during the milder months. For sub-tropical bedding, I plunge the pots so that they can be easily taken up and housed in the greenhouse well before frost is expected. 12in. (30cm) pots are usually required and, if grown on further, small tubs may be eventually needed.

The habit of the banana varies. Some types form a clump and others grow 'tree-like' forming a single stem. On large specimens, the 'stems' may appear like 'trunks', but they are actually composed of leaf bases and are known as 'pseudostems'. The foliage is always large - it can be enormous! On mature specimens of Musa ensete, for example, leaves can exceed 16ft. (5 metres) in length, and they can easily reach half this size in the home greenhouse. Because of the leaf area, and their tendency to brittleness, it is important to put the plants somewhere sheltered from excessive winds when they are placed outdoors. Strong wind will soon tear the leaves and the tattered appearance that results is anything but decorative.

For most ordinary gardeners banana plants cannot be a long term acquisition and - perhaps reluctantly - a fresh start with new plants may have to be made every few years. Although the rooted stolons of some species and varieties are sometimes available through tropical house plant nurseries, it's much cheaper and more convenient to begin from seed where this is possible.

Species available

Seeds of the following are among those offered at the present time:-

Germination time

Banana seed is very large and easy to handle, but germination can be erratic and failure is common. In my experience, this is caused by the seed being not fresh enough when it comes on to the market. I have noticed a very considerable difference in weight, and seeds that float were found to be usually non-viable. On cutting open the lightweight and floating seeds with a fine hack-saw the interior was found to be completely desiccated and in powder form. According to the German firm of Blossfeld (who specialised in house plant seed, including Musa) with whom I communicated some time ago, Musa seed, especially M. ensete, remains viable for only 2 years. I have also noticed a very wide variation in germination time. Good seed, presumably fresh, has germinated within 2 or 3 weeks and the resulting seedlings have had considerable vigour. Other seed, presumably old, has taken as many months, and has often given trouble by the radicle rotting soon after emerging from the seed.

Germination has evidently been a problem for some years, and many recommendations have been given for its improvement. These range from merely soaking the seed, chitting, or cutting off or filing a small section of the outer coating which incidentally is often extremely tough, to scalding with boiling water, and even treatment with concentrated sulphuric acid! I have personally resorted to soaking and chitting but, as mentioned, what I have believed to be fresh seed has germinated easily with no intervention, and usually when sown directly into small pots of potting compost.

However, an important requirement for good germination is adequate temperature, and I prefer about 72-77F (22-25C) preferably held constantly until the establishment of the seedlings. A radicle (root shoot) first grows out of the seed and, if a seed is directly sown in a pot of compost, it may be some time before any top growth appears. I have found that often, in the very early stages, this shoot is prone to attack by fungi and other rotting organisms - particularly if the temperature is low. For this reason I prefer to start the seed by merely placing it on clean wet cotton wool in a clean clear plastic box, giving the temperature already recommended. The seeds are then transferred - carefully of course - when the radicle is about 5mm in length, to small pots of potting compost. The pots are then returned to the propagator until about 2in. (5cm) of top growth has appeared. It should be noted that many small propa-gators sold to the home gardener will NOT reach a temperature of 68F (20C) in the cool. In such cases starting, or direct sowing is best left until about May to June when the natural temperature in the greenhouse will be high enough. Alternatively, the seeds can be started early in a warm place in the home.

To reduce the risk of rotting see that all materials and equipment used is thoroughly clean. Composts should be of the sterilised type. It may help to sterilise the outside of the seed with a weak solution of Sodium hypochlorite (household bleach). Use one teaspoonful per small cup of water and immerse seed for a few minutes, afterwards washing thoroughly in clean water.

Aftercare

When the seedlings are well established they can be potted on to 5in. (24cm) pots as required, using any approved potting compost. Growth is usually fast and, if an early start is made, good decorative plants can be had the first year, a move into 12in (30cm) pots being required in autumn for the more vigorous species.

The hardier species, like M. ensete are easy to overwinter at about 45-50F (7-10C), but may show leaf browning and deterioration. This does not matter, since regrowth will be rapid with the return of higher temperatures. In winter, keep plants only very slightly moist and remove any decaying foliage cleanly. From spring to autumn watering and feeding can be generous. Pests and diseases are rarely troublesome.