Chilean Bell Flower

Table of Contents and IntroductionAfrican Violets: the Doyen of House PlantsAgapanthusAlstroemeriasAmerican SagebrushesAmerican WildflowersAndean Nymph - a pink mimulusAquilegias (Columbines)AuriculasAustralian AnnualsBellis Perennis (Daisies)Black-Eyed SusanBlue African LiliesBreeding DelphiniumsBreeding Fuchsias: Part 1: From SeedBreeding Fuchsias: Part 2: HybridisationBromeliads from SeedButterflies in Soy SauceCacti RaisingCampanulasChilean Bell FlowerChilly Treatment for Peruvian LiliesCollecting SeedConserving Annuals and BiennialsCosmosCucumbersCycads: Living FossilsCyclamen for IndoorsDahlias from SeedDamping OffErythroniumsF1 Hybrid - What Is it?F2 and Open Pollinated VarietiesFrom Obscurity to the Height of FashionGentiansGeraniumsGermination to Pricking OutGolden Impatiens - The StoryGrowing Alpines From Seed: Part 1Growing Alpines From Seed: Part 2Growing Bananas From SeedGrowing Cyclamen From SeedGrowing Eucalyptus From SeedGrowing Ferns from SporesGrowing Foxgloves From SeedGrowing Fritillarias From SeedGrowing From Seed: From Packet to SoilGrowing Hardy Ferns from SporesGrowing Hardy Geraniums From SeedGrowing Lewisias From SeedGrowing Magnolias From SeedGrowing Meconopsis From SeedGrowing Proteas and Related Genera from SeedHandling Small SeedsHardy Annuals: Part 1Hardy Annuals: Part 2Hardy CyclamenHardy SpurgesHelleboresIncreasing your Violas and ViolettasKeeping Records of Seed SowingLettuce - the Vital Part of any SaladLord Anson's PeaMagnolias - the Root of the ProblemMimulus from Seed to Seed in Sixty DaysNew Guinea ImpatiensOld-fashioned Sweet PeasOnions with EverythingPansies are not Difficult to Grow from SeedParsleyPerennials for American GardensPetuniasPhygelius - their cultivation and propagationPinks: Evocation of the PastPlants That Flower OncePrickly but NicePropagatorsRadishesRaising PalmsRaising PrimulasSalad Leaves - a lot to be desiredShow Stoppers Twice OverSowing SeedsSowing in Open GroundSowing to Feed our FriendsSturt's Desert PeaSweet Peas - Autumn SownSweet Peas - Sowing and GerminatingTall and HandsomeTechniques with Tiny SeedTexas BluebellThe Effect of Light on Germination and SeedlingsThe Nervous PeaThe Scarlet Welsh PoppyThe Search for the Yellow Sweet PeaToad LiliesTomatoesTreasure Hunt for TasteUnderstanding Latin NamesUnique Poppy (Mother of Pearl)Viability of VegetablesWeaning SeedlingsWill the Real Mimosa Please Stand Up

One of the most exotic of climbers the Chilean bell flower is also one of the most difficult to raise. David Batty explains exactly how to go about it.

The Chilean bellflower (Lapageria rosea) is among the most beautiful evergreen climbers but they can also be quite difficult to grow from seed. The plant originally comes from Chile where even there it is considered difficult to grow in cultivation! It's name honours a keen gardener and amateur botanist Marie Josephine Rose Tascher, de la Pagerie, Napoleons Empress Josephine.

There has been much work put into cracking the problem of getting lapageria to germinate evenly and rapidly, for the seeds can be stubborn and very slow. At the Royal Botanic Garden at Edinburgh seeds have taken two and a half years to come up. The problem seems to be linked with after harvest dormancy as seeds sown straight from the pod often germinate, under the right conditions, in about six weeks. In fact, seeds sent from Chile still inside the fruits have germinated en route. We will therefore deal with the method of germinating 'in the green', that is straight from the plant, and also from the packet.

Sowing fresh seed

As lapagerias can and do set fruit in this country, there is always the possibility that you may be able to obtain seed immediately it becomes ripe. The fruits can usually be seen starting to form in April when the largest will be size of an acorn. They won't be fully mature, however, until early Autumn, so one may have to wait a year for ripe seed. When ripe the fruits are soft and the size of a small damson.

After harvesting, wash the seeds from the fruit and sow immediately 1/16 inch (2mm) deep in pots or pans of vermiculite. Normal seed sowing composts are not at all suitable at this stage. Provide a temperature of 65-75F (19-24C) and a humid atmosphere, germination usually commences after about six weeks and the seeds will continue coming up over a further period of six weeks or more. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out into 2-3in (5-7.5cm) pots of ericaceous (lime free) compost, making sure that they are well crocked. Grow on in a shaded frame or greenhouse, and always water with rain water in hard water areas.

Sowing bought seed

Lapageria seeds which are dried and stored before sowing often become dormant and benefit from a period of cold and moisture before they are sown. This process, known as pre-chilling may have already been partially carried out before you receive the seed. Seeds straight from the packet may also need to be soaked before sowing. Examine the seeds, which are lemon yellow and look like tiny eggs, for any sign of a root showing through, if you can see the start of root growth then you will not need to soak. If they have not started to sprout then soak them for three days in cold water, changing the water three to five times during that period.

After soaking moisten a small quantity of peat. It is imperative that it is of the right moisture content, neither too wet, nor too dry. It needs to be just a shade dryer than it would be if you were going to use it for seed sowing. Mix the seeds and peat together and place in the corner of a small polythene bag. Then roll up the bag into a tight package so that the peat and seeds are in close contact with each other and there are no air spaces and seal with sellotape. Place the package into a domestic refrigerator where the temperature is 37-42F (3-5C) for 1-3 months. The seeds need to be chilled but not frozen.

You will need to examine the package occasionally and eventually you will see a small root protruding from each seed. Once this has become twice as long as the seed, approximately ½in (7mm) the chitted seeds can be removed from the bag and potted up.

Potting up

After germination the most difficult part of the lapageria life cycle is getting the seedlings established into pots. It is essential that the roots are in moist compost which also drains freely and often they will sulk for long periods after transplanting. This is apparently because the soil becomes sour before the roots are vigorous enough to explore it thoroughly. Free drainage is therefore essential and a potting mixture of a standard ericaceous compost containing peat and sand with one part of vermiculite added to every five of compost, plus a little charcoal is recommended. This will help to ensure that at no time the soil becomes water logged or the roots deprived of air.

After potting up into 3in (7.5cm) pots, give a light mist spray with rain water and seal each inside a polythene bag which can be left in place until the seedlings are growing well. Place them in a well lit spot, avoiding bright sunshine and water with care until the growth becomes apparent. At this stage temperature does not seem to be critical and the seedlings should be kept at around 55-60F (13-15C) in a humid atmosphere.

An alternative method

As already mentioned, the seedlings once pricked out can sometimes 'sulk' for a long period or even die if conditions are not quite right. The moist paper method is one way which has proved successful in providing the right conditions for the seedlings to grow away with the same vigour which they display at germination.

In the laboratory the seedlings are transferred to moist filter paper which is always kept at a steady 68F (20C). They are in full light and high humidity and growth is much more vigorous in these conditions than from seedlings pricked out in the normal way.

These conditions can be easily duplicated in the home by the use of a margarine tub or similar container preferably with a clear plastic lid. Cleanliness is essential, scald the plastic before use and use only cold boiled water (rain water in hard water areas) at all stages of development. First fill the tub one third full with moistened kitchen towel to provide a moist flat surface on which to place the seeds.

After removing the chitted seeds from the fridge rinse them carefully to wash off all traces of peat and place them as far apart as possible on the moist kitchen towel. Replace the lid and leave the container in a well lit spot, out of full sunlight and in a temperature of 65-70F (19-21C). Examine regularly and wash off any fungus which may form on the seeds. After about a month or a little more they will have developed a slender stem like a tiny asparagus spear and then a relatively large shiny green leaf. At this stage they can be potted up as described above but increasing the vermiculite to one part by volume for every two of compost for the first potting.

Aftercare

The seedlings are best kept in pots in a shaded frame until they are two years old to ensure that they have a good root system. Early spring is the best time for planting. Lapagerias can be grown permanently in pots but much prefer to be planted in a deep bed of moist, perfectly drained soil. When -grown under glass, water liberally from April to September and provide a cool moist atmosphere. Through the winter provide a minimum temperature of 45F (7C), keep the atmosphere dryer and water only sparingly.

In the warmest parts of the country and in sheltered gardens lapagerias can be grown successfully on walls and trellises out of doors. They are particularly at home close to the sea and in Cornwall they are often in flower out of doors at Christmas. They produce young shoots from just below the ground and can therefore cope with a small amount of frost but as flowers are produced on the old wood it's best to cover the twining stems temporarily with a cover of Hessian or straw during the hardest weather to protect next seasons blossoms.

There is both a red and white form of this beautiful plant. Seedlings usually come true to colour but have also produced some very beautiful intermediate shades, so it really is worth the extra effort put into raising this plant from seed.