American Wildflowers

Table of Contents and IntroductionAfrican Violets: the Doyen of House PlantsAgapanthusAlstroemeriasAmerican SagebrushesAmerican WildflowersAndean Nymph - a pink mimulusAquilegias (Columbines)AuriculasAustralian AnnualsBellis Perennis (Daisies)Black-Eyed SusanBlue African LiliesBreeding DelphiniumsBreeding Fuchsias: Part 1: From SeedBreeding Fuchsias: Part 2: HybridisationBromeliads from SeedButterflies in Soy SauceCacti RaisingCampanulasChilean Bell FlowerChilly Treatment for Peruvian LiliesCollecting SeedConserving Annuals and BiennialsCosmosCucumbersCycads: Living FossilsCyclamen for IndoorsDahlias from SeedDamping OffErythroniumsF1 Hybrid - What Is it?F2 and Open Pollinated VarietiesFrom Obscurity to the Height of FashionGentiansGeraniumsGermination to Pricking OutGolden Impatiens - The StoryGrowing Alpines From Seed: Part 1Growing Alpines From Seed: Part 2Growing Bananas From SeedGrowing Cyclamen From SeedGrowing Eucalyptus From SeedGrowing Ferns from SporesGrowing Foxgloves From SeedGrowing Fritillarias From SeedGrowing From Seed: From Packet to SoilGrowing Hardy Ferns from SporesGrowing Hardy Geraniums From SeedGrowing Lewisias From SeedGrowing Magnolias From SeedGrowing Meconopsis From SeedGrowing Proteas and Related Genera from SeedHandling Small SeedsHardy Annuals: Part 1Hardy Annuals: Part 2Hardy CyclamenHardy SpurgesHelleboresIncreasing your Violas and ViolettasKeeping Records of Seed SowingLettuce - the Vital Part of any SaladLord Anson's PeaMagnolias - the Root of the ProblemMimulus from Seed to Seed in Sixty DaysNew Guinea ImpatiensOld-fashioned Sweet PeasOnions with EverythingPansies are not Difficult to Grow from SeedParsleyPerennials for American GardensPetuniasPhygelius - their cultivation and propagationPinks: Evocation of the PastPlants That Flower OncePrickly but NicePropagatorsRadishesRaising PalmsRaising PrimulasSalad Leaves - a lot to be desiredShow Stoppers Twice OverSowing SeedsSowing in Open GroundSowing to Feed our FriendsSturt's Desert PeaSweet Peas - Autumn SownSweet Peas - Sowing and GerminatingTall and HandsomeTechniques with Tiny SeedTexas BluebellThe Effect of Light on Germination and SeedlingsThe Nervous PeaThe Scarlet Welsh PoppyThe Search for the Yellow Sweet PeaToad LiliesTomatoesTreasure Hunt for TasteUnderstanding Latin NamesUnique Poppy (Mother of Pearl)Viability of VegetablesWeaning SeedlingsWill the Real Mimosa Please Stand Up

Wildflowers are now being grown much more widely in gardens. Laura Quatrochi describes the delights of American natives and explains how to grow them.

The native flora of the prairies, mountains and woodlands are a living part of the American heritage, as valuable and irreplaceable as any history we have. Wildflowers and native flora have been my lifelong interest and I encourage cultivating and propagating them in our gardens. Although cultivating wildflowers is no substitute for preserving our native environment, it gives us a small piece of American history and creates living treasures of our natural landscape.

I believe wildflower gardens are a celebration of our environment. These gardens are romantic, intriguing and spontaneous. Rather than improving nature, they accentuate the beauty and wonder of it. They invite you to become an intimate part of the seasonal changes, weather conditions, and the migration of birds and butterflies. Because of natural selection, wildflowers are hardy, more resistant to damage by disease and insects, and more tolerant to drought, excessive moisture, and extreme heat and cold. Generally, they are self-maintaining and require little or no care to proliferate year after year. Wildflowers add texture, beauty, colour, and diversification to our landscape.

Lately, Americans are rediscovering the joy of our national wildflower heritage. They are using wildflowers in unprecedented ways in gardens throughout the country. This new design concept creates more interesting, dynamic and enjoyable environments. Native plant material exemplifies the diversity of our geographical regions in a time when conformity and standardization dominate our surroundings. Natives are more suited to the soil, climate and other growing conditions of the location in which they naturally evolved. Consequently, the wild garden usually requires less care and provides a low maintenance landscape from season to season. Wildflower gardening has been referred to as a compromise between the chaos of the wilderness and the rigid structure of the formal garden.

Settings for American Wildflowers

The broad selection of natives commercially available allows us to recreate natural landscapes in diverse, quickly changing environments. Patches of freely flowering wildflowers bring us back to nature's basic values and the enjoyment of our abundant land. Natives can provide a colorful transition between lawn areas and concrete walls and pathways. For example, spreading orange poppies (Eschscholzia californica), low-growing yellow primroses (Oenothera cheiranthifolia), and mat-forming white yarrow (Achillea millefolium) can add a breath of color to an otherwise monochromatic lawn and slab of concrete.

For those of us who are still graced by beautiful forests and woodland settings, I recommend enhancing your gardens with native perennials and shallow-rooted wildflowers such as bluebells (Mertensia virginiana), forget-me-nots (Myosotis sylvatica), primroses (Primula vulgaris), violets (Viola sempervirens) and foxglove (Digitalis purpurea). These plants are well suited for the rich humus soils and thrive in shade conditions.

Unlike the woodland garden with its inward focus, the meadow garden on open hillsides, north and south facing slopes, and in valleys supports different types of wildflowers and native mixtures. Wildflowers such as arroyo lupine (Lupinus succulentus), prairie aster (Aster tanacetifolius), blanket flower (Gaillardia aristata), and evening primrose (Oenothera lamarckiana) will flourish where there is well-drained soil and an abundance of sun. Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), larkspur (Delphinium cardinale), and black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), on the other hand, will thrive in our valleys where there is ample moisture. The meadow mixtures available contain both annuals and perennials as well as a few biennials. They are designed for dry and moist conditions in different geographical locations. These meadow mixtures are characterized by diverse plant forms, spectacular splashes of color and sequential blooming patterns. Once established, wildflower meadows require no maintenance except for periodic mowing between flowering to improve vigor and scatter the annual seed.

There are several garden catalogs that offer wildflowers for wetland conditions. A wetland garden is a very specialized and sensitive environment. Depending upon the amount of water present during the year, it can vary from a moist meadow to a swamp. These gardens are very difficult to maintain unless the moisture level is stabilized. Once stable, yellow water buttercup (Ranunculus flabellaris), marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) and meadow rue (Thalictrum polygamum) will add striking color throughout the season.

On the other side of the spectrum, the desert habitat nurtures natives that are adapted to extremely dry conditions with brief periods of moisture. Beautiful flowering gardens of California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), purple phacelia (Phacelia tanacetifolia) and blazing star (Mentzelia lindleyi) will flourish in these harsh conditions and return year after year in prolific profusion.

Although I support the use of our American natives as the backbone of our gardens, I believe exotics also have an important place. A combination of the two brings a balance between the free flowing design and the structural systematized design concept. In a garden where we usually grow marigolds, ageratum, zinnias, and impatiens, compliment them with natives such as farewell-to-spring (Clarkia amoena), scarlet larkspur, yellow lupine (Lupinus densi floras var. aureus), blue flax (Linum lewisif), lance-leaved coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) and catchfly (Silene armeria). They will add height, color, texture, vigor and diversity in the blooming pattern. Interestingly, wildflowers grown in gardens are usually more robust than when found in the wild. Therefore they compliment the large-flowered exotics and, at the same time, bring a touch of countryside to our gardens.

Although the wildflower industry is relatively new, there are many excellent sources for quality seed. Whether you are purchasing separate species for a woodland garden or a wildflower mixture for a hillside meadow, always purchase quality merchandise. Because you will devote many hours to planning and developing your wildflower garden, it is important that you start with high quality germinating seed. Gather four or five catalogs from different seed companies and select varieties and mixtures for your particular garden setting.

Many of the seed catalogs have intriguing speciality mixtures such as 'wildflowers for birds and butterflies' and 'wildflowers for dried arrangements'. These mixtures contain many natives and varieties that are adapted to broad geographical regions. Check to see that the non-natives in them harmonize with your local environment. There are also many beautiful regional mixtures available and the best results are usually achieved if you select the one designed specially for your location. Choose either an annual or perennial mixture or a mixture of both annuals and perennials depending upon the effect you desire.

Seed sowing and aftercare

Before sowing the wildflower seed, carefully read the planting instructions on the seed package. Seeds randomly tossed onto the soil rarely give good results. Proper soil preparation, however, is the key to a vigorous healthy garden. Common methods for preparing the soil include on a large scale, disking, harrowing, and plowing. In the garden, forking the soil over is suitable.

Wildflowers grow well when seeded directly on bare ground where there is no competition for moisture from existing vegetation. Although natives are fairly aggressive, they are no match for pasture grasses and weeds. In areas where weeds are a problem, I recommend using a herbicide to clear the soil and waiting several weeks before applying the herbicide on the second growth of weeds. The soil is usually tilled 6-8in deep before the first application of the herbicide. After the second, minimise the movement of the soil so that fewer and fewer weed seeds are brought to the surface.

The method of applying the seed usually depends upon the size of the garden and the natural terrain of the area. In small gardens, broadcast the seed evenly by hand or use a drop or rotary spreader. Rake the seed in lightly, covering it to a maximum depth of two to three times its own thickness. For seeding areas over 500 sq. ft., grass land drills have been most effective. Drilling to a maximum of ¼inch and firming the soil afterwards maximises seed/soil contact and insures good moisture transfer.

All seeds including wildflowers require ample moisture to germinate and develop into healthy vigorous plants. Keep the soil moist for approximately six to eight weeks. When the plants develop about four leaves, water the area more deeply and less frequently. In non-irrigated areas, plant in the spring or before periods of anticipated rainfall.

I do not recommend applying fertilizer unless the soil is extremely poor and void of nutrients. Fertilizer encourages weed and lush vegetative growth rather than flowers.

Store extra seed in a dry place where there is relatively little temperature change. A fluctuation in temperature will readily decrease seed viability, however, seed will maintain germination for at least one year if properly stored.

The maintenance of your wildflower garden will depend upon the type of garden you have. In a meadow situation, mow in the late fall when the flowering is over to eliminate dead plant material and scatter the annual seed. In a smaller garden area, prune mature plants and discard dead annuals to keep your garden healthy and prolific. Aside from cutting, supplemental irrigation may be necessary in very dry seasons and to prolong the blooming period.